TEA's BIBLE

Kochi

Mountain sencha, and also goishicha — a lactic-fermented tea that sits well outside the green tea category and is still made today.

Land and climate

Steep slopes in the Shikoku mountains, with small fields scattered along the Niyodo and Shimanto rivers. Goishicha is made in Otoyo.

How it is made

For goishicha, steamed leaf is first allowed to undergo a mold-fermentation stage, then fermented with lactic acid bacteria in a vat, cut into squares and sun-dried. That two-stage fermentation is rare anywhere in the world. The name comes from the dried squares resembling go stones laid out on a board.

Cultivars

What to look for

Goishicha is distinctly sour and will surprise anyone expecting green tea. Traditionally it is simmered, or used to cook tea gruel. Very few producers remain and it is hard to find.

Teas from here

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